In Da Kitchen

SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY, 9th Avenue near 45th Street, Hell’s Kitchen. There’s a second location on Second Avenue
August 29, 2011

Editor's note: My friend, ex-roommate and bar-b-cutie Jessica and I visited this restaurant in late July, about four days before I left New York. We’re just getting around to posting this, so apologies if this seems a bit out of order. We haven’t written about barbecue in a while, so this is actually good timing. As always, let us know what you think. Unlike me, Jess still lives in New York, and would love to get suggestions and feedback. We'll still occasionally write about non-barbecue stuff in this space, because we simply can't eat this succulent stuff all the time.


Mark

I’ll get to the restaurant in a minute. First, I’d like to share my favorite story (there are many) on how the Hell’s Kitchen neighborhood of New York City got its moniker. In the late 1800s, a veteran cop named Dutch Fred was observing the latest gang fight on West 39th Street near 10th Avenue with his rookie partner. As punches were thrown and heads became bloody, the astonished rookie cop allegedly said: “This place is hell itself.” His battle-weary partner countered: “Hell’s a mild climate. This is Hell’s Kitchen.”

I’m allowing myself to become nostalgic because I leave my beloved New York in a matter of days. And Hell’s Kitchen is where I’ve lived for years. Like a lot of recent transplants to New York, I’ve hung my hat in several apartments in various neighborhoods. But Hell’s Kitchen was the best fit for me. The neighborhood is a bit seedy but can occasionally be kind, and appears slightly run-down but is still ruggedly handsome, when viewed in just the right light. But I (finally) digress.
Despite its violent, riotous history, the kitchens of Hell’s Kitchen are now

producing some of the best affordable food in the city. From the Thai food of Aceluck to the Greek seafood of Uncle Nick’s, Ninth Avenue and its cross streets have become a slightly grittier extension of Restaurant Row in nearby Times Square. Among the more recent entries is Southern Hospitality on Ninth Avenue, a barbecue joint created by, among others, actor, rapper and all-around superstar Justin Timberlake.
This restaurant on Ninth Avenue is one of two Southern Hospitality ‘cue joints in Manhattan. The other is on Second Avenue on the Upper East Side. The Hell’s Kitchen version was a bit loud, both in volume and décor. The dining room is dominated by a giant photograph of Memphis-born Elvis Presley wearing boxing gloves, an apparent reference to lyrics from Presley’s hit song “Hi-Heel Sneakers,” which advise some to “wear some boxing gloves in case some fool might want to start a fight.”
Timberlake, also a native of Memphis, has obviously influenced the menu. Judging from the number of items that are deep fried, Elvis himself may have had a hand in conceiving the cuisine. I had the King’s Combo, consisting of a plate full of Memphis-style, dry-rubbed spare ribs, sliced brisket and fried chicken. I chose mac & cheese and sweet potato fries as my sides.

The spare ribs were very, very good. A tad salty, but not annoyingly so. For those who recoil at the taste of sodium, remember there are pills for high blood pressure nowadays. Besides, it seems silly to complain about increased hypertension when you’re gnawing through a half-rack of ribs. I don’t eat like this every day, and meals like this may be even scarcer once I move to the Persian Gulf. I hope not, because these were some tasty ribs. And that’s coming from someone who doesn’t normally like dry rub ribs.
There was less enthusiasm for the remaining selections on the plate. The brisket was a bit gray and tasteless, requiring healthy doses from one of three barbecue sauces provided at each table. As for the fried chicken, I don’t have an opinion because I was so full from the ribs that I had the rest of the meal wrapped up in order to be taken home – the ribs were that good, and that plentiful. I’ll be yearning for this place when I tire of the hummus and falafel of my future home.

Jessica

My selection at Southern Hospitality was less regal than Mark’s King’s Combo platter but no less tasty. The sliced smoked brisket sandwich was flavorful, topped with onions and jalapenos to give it a nice kick. It came with a creamy cheese sauce and beef stock on the side, plus fries and slaw. Needless to say, I didn’t require a to-go box.

Southern Hospitality’s website touts its Memphis Style BBQ technique, a style of barbeque that I previously wasn’t very familiar with. This was a welcome introduction. The flashy Elvis-laden decor gave the place a festive vibe and, with a window seat in the corner, we had a good view of the happenings on 9th Avenue. Per Mark’s post, this section of town no longer lives up to its daunting name but there are still plenty of interesting characters. For those who like dive bars, there are a number of them in the area that are worth checking out before or after a Southern Hospitality feast. Rudy’s, for one, is also on 9th Ave near 44th Street: it has cheap beer, free hot dogs and a welcoming pig statue perched out front. As the picture below illustrates, you can’t miss it.

This was a bittersweet excursion, as it was the last before Mark’s departure for the Middle East. Hopefully, this savory send-off will keep the barbeque cravings at bay until his next visit home.